Step - 1
This is a wood encapsulated transom that has rotted.
This is a common problem with boats 15 to 20 years old.
Usually the caulking and adhesives dry out and separate
allowing moisture to penetrate the wood core.

Step - 2
The deck section at the transom is cut to allow access to
the transom core. Removal of the entire deck is
sometimes possible and easier, but not on this model.

Step - 3
This is an example of how to remove the deck
of a smaller boat that has a separate deck and
interior. The transom removal is about the same.

Step - 4
Hammer, chisels and crowbars are the tools of choice.
The ends of the stringers and battery shelves have been
cut to allow removal of the transom core.

Step - 5
After test fitting the first sheet, the second sheet is cut to
size and the placement of retaining screws is determined
so as not to interfere with engine bolts and other thru-hull
openings. Then the two sheets are fiber glassed together.

Step - 6
After sandwiching the two sheets of plywood together, the
side that will be exposed after installation is covered with
stitch mat or fabmat and the air bubbles rolled out. Care
must be exercised to keep the core from developing a
twist or curve that would complicate the fit later.

Step - 7
After the cover up on the one side is cured, the core is
flipped and the edges rounded over to allow for a tight fit.

Step - 8
The core is test fitted one more time. This is more of a dry
run to be sure that the wedges and clamps will do their job
of squeezing it all together before catalyzing the resin.

Step - 9
Here the transom has been set and cured. The end cores
for the stringers have been placed and the stringer
cover up is in progress.

Step - 10
After the stringers and battery shelves have been covered,
the supports for the deck section are in place, and the bilge
gel coated, it's time to putty up for the deck section.

Step - 11
The deck section is placed into a wet layer of fiberglass
on the supports and clamped into position at the transom.
It is also screwed to the deck supports at this time.

Step - 12
The joint is then ground to a taper ("V'd out") and three
layers of fiberglass applied in graduating widths to adhere
the parts and fill the void to be fair with the surfaces.

Step - 13
This is ground until it is near fair (almost flush with the
adjacent panels). This is usually done just as soon as the
repair is cured enough to grind without tearing.

Step - 14
Then the surface is completely faired with an air file or
electric orbital sander using 36 grit paper.

Step - 15
A coat of gel is applied with brush and/or squeegee to act
as a primer. It should be worked in well to a clean surface.
Wax additive to prevent tackiness is a must. But if you
forget, you can always wash with acetone after it cures.

Step - 16
The cured gel primer is then sanded with an air file or
electric orbital and is ready for the finish gel or paint.

Step - 17
-Here the area to be non-skid has been taped off and the
gel coat is applied with a brush, roller or spray.
The non-skid additive is mixed directly in the gel coat
along with the wax, tested for consistency, then catalyst.

Step - 18
Installing the brass thru-hull fittings and aluminum trim
finalizes the project and it is ready for the mechanic
to hang the motor.

Final Step - 19
That's it! So much for marine proctology.

-- The End --